Jackson, Mississippi's capital city, is known as the "city with soul." Webster defines "soul" as "the spiritual principle embodied in humans." In that sense, "soul" is an excellent word to describe a trip to Jackson these days.
The city's rich and complex history combined with an abundance of good food and a healthy dose of fun evokes a soul connection for visitors paying attention. Especially in October — the perfect month to visit central Mississippi. The light is just right, and the temperature is mild, often with a slight nip in the air. Though pine trees dominate the drive between Louisiana and Jackson, there is still a bounty of beautiful foliage and a kaleidoscopic array of fun upon arrival — including the annual Mississippi State Fair.
Mississippi State Fair: biscuits, bulls and bands
The Mississippi State Fair is an old-school state fair complete with a midway, rides, bulls, bands, pies, biscuits and taffy.
Running through Oct. 15, the Mississippi State Fair is one of the 15 largest state fairs in the country, with about 519,000 people attending in 2022.
The Mississippi State Fair is more than a midway with games. This is the kind of state fair with heifers, pies and jams vying for blue ribbons. It's got Ferris wheels, big-name entertainers (including a giant line dance event with Cupid set for Oct. 8), rides that spin and make you dizzy (or worse), taffy, biscuits and more.
That's free biscuits, in fact.
For nearly 50 years, Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce employees have made hot buttermilk biscuits, poked holes in the biscuits and filled them with Blackburn's syrup (the unofficial syrup of real Mississippians). From there, they hand out the biscuits to fairgoers at no charge.
Last year, they handed out almost 74,000 biscuits. (Note, the author's uncle used to help make and hand out those biscuits and can vouch for their deliciousness.) Mississippians take their biscuits seriously (and you should, too). Biscuits at the fair are a time-honored tradition.
Running through Oct. 15, the Mississippi State Fair is one of the 15 largest state fairs in the country, with about 519,000 people attending in 2022.
Much like the taffy.
For many in Mississippi, taffy is synonymous with the fair. As a 1970s-1980s Mississippi State Fair taffy expert, I've checked with local sources to see if the taffy is the same. All sources say it is still sticky and fantastic. Growing up, I believed there was a law that connected going to the fair and buying taffy.
Even though there is also an extensive 4-H food competition, there's more to the Mississippi State Fair than food. There's also an enormous livestock show, complete with bulls, dairy cows, hogs, sheep, goats, chickens and more.
There's music, including an American Idol competition this year (6 p.m. on Oct. 10) where the top five get special passes to audition for the show.
Two Mississippi museums
Two Mississippi museums stand not far from the state fairgrounds — the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum and the Mississippi History Museum. The dual museums which opened in 2017 were built at a cost of around $90 million. Though side by side, the two museums are as different as can be.
The Civil Rights Museum is full of interactive, world-class exhibits that pack a punch and are simultaneously striking and uncomfortable by design. Exhibits demonstrate the inequality of the "separate but equal" days of education and those that tell the story of Emmett Till, Medgar Evers and the Freedom Riders. The museum feels like a living, breathing archive of the state's civil rights struggles. At the center of the galleries is an emphasis on the strength and sacrifices of those who paved the way for a better future and the hope that remains for tomorrow.
The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum
The Museum of Mississippi History feels more like an old-school museum paying homage to days long gone. Observant visitors can't help but feel the curatorial tension between the two.
The Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home
Medgar and Myrlie Evers' home was the nerve center of the Jackson Civil Rights Movement. These days, it's frozen in time as it was the night Medgar Evers, the first NAACP field secretary and prominent civil rights activist and organizer, was assassinated in 1963.
The bullet holes in the window and walls remain at the home located at 2332 Margaret Walker Alexander Drive. Even some of the neighbors are the same. It's an unsettling and eerie step back in time that prompts many visitors to consider how far we've come and how far we have to go.
The Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home National Monument is now a part of the National Park system. It is available for tours by appointment.
Now a National Historic Landmark, the Evers' home has been turned into a museum. Open by appointment, tours are available by advanced appointment only. To schedule a ranger-led tour, call (601) 345-7211, from Tuesday-Saturday 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. No restrooms are available.
Other upcoming events in Jackson this fall
Fertile Ground Brewery’s second annual Oktoberfest Celebration, Oct. 20
The brewery’s Märzen and Festbier will be on full display along with games, music, food and more in a block party setting at the second annual Oktoberfest. Be sure to take a glass or porcelain stein and a six-pack (or two) home with you for at-home enjoyment.
Fondren District in Jackson, Mississippi
Phillis Wheatley Poetry Festival, Nov. 1-4
In 1973, trailblazing poet and writer Margaret Walker invited 30 leading Black female authors to Jackson State University for a pioneering conference and bicentennial celebration of Phillis Wheatley’s “Poems on Various Subjects, Religious and Moral,” the first-ever published volume of poetry by an African American author. Half a century later, this celebration continues with original participants and new generations of female writers leading discussions, keynotes and other events.
Where to stay
- The Westin Jackson, 407 S. Congress St., Jackson, (601) 968-8200, is an upscale, art-filled quiet refuge in downtown Jackson. The fine-dining restaurant, Estelle, is a great fine-dining option. The hotel, located in the center of downtown, also has an in-house spa.
- Old Capitol Inn, a small designer boutique hotel with 24 rooms was previously the YWCA until Mende Alford bought the building and renovated it 25 years ago. Alford says writers often stay at the small, quaint hotel.
- The Fairview Inn, a charming boutique hotel, is considered by many to be a remarkable place for a writer to get inspired. With 18 rooms, guests have the best of both worlds, modern luxury and cozy amenities. As a bonus, guests can easily walk to the Welty House.
Where to eat
Go hungry to Johnny T's Bistro and Bar: Try the crab claws, the catfish and grits and the Blue Plate lunch special which includes a choice of entree with sides that include black-eyed peas, collard greens, butterbeans and more.
- The Big Apple Inn: Where else do you go for a pig ear sandwich? This is the place! 509 N. Farish St., Jackson.
- Johnny T's Bistro and Bar: Go hungry. This place has so much good food that the chances are high you will over-order because you'll want to try it all. We recommend the crab claws, the catfish and grits and the Blue Plate lunch special which includes a choice of entree with sides that include black-eyed peas, collard greens, butterbeans and more. 538 N. Farish St., Jackson.
- Rooster's in Fondren if you're in the mood for a burger. 2906 N. State St., Jackson.
- Deja Brew Bistro in Fondren has amazing chicken and waffles and more. 425 Mitchell Ave., Jackson.
- The Iron Horse Grill has an incredible Sunday brunch with a variety of options from traditional Southern to Mexican, with some mean enchiladas. Plus, there's a wax-figure museum paying homage to the musicians of Mississippi. 320 W. Pearl St., Jackson.